Thanks to Skunk2 & Tony for giving us the chance to install and test the Pro C Coilovers

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Skunk2 Pro-C Full Coilover Tech Install

Tools Needed:
Jack & Stands
12mm Socket
14MM Socket
17MM Socket
Ratchet
3” Extension
17MM Boxed End Wrench
Tape Measure (Optional)
Provided wrenches (should be 2 of them)

Jack the desired side of the vehicle up until the tire is off the ground. We did this with both sides of the front in the air. Then, when done with the front, we did both rears. Then put your jack stands in the proper spot according to your vehicle’s owners manual. Once securely supported on stands, remove the wheel(s) that are in the air.

With this being a new setup from Skunk2, a lot of people might not know how to properly adjust them. There are a total of 3 jam nuts on the strut body. The top and middle are used to hold your spring in place at the desired length/tension. The bottom is used to hold the adjustable lower portion of the strut body in place, once adjusted properly. What you will need to do is this:

1. Spin the top jam nut up to the bottom of the spring. Be sure not to over compress the spring. You want it just more than snug, so it will be hard to move when you try to turn the spring by hand. But you should still be able to move it by hand. Then spin the middle jam nut up to the top one. Use the larger provided wrench to hold the top jam nut in place, and the smaller to tighten the middle nut against it. Do this to one coilover and measure the length from the top of the top hat to the bottom of the middle lock nut using a tape measure. Repeat this for the other strut on the same end of the vehicle.

2. Now on to height adjustment. With the adjustable section of the strut body threaded all the way in, a drop of approx. 4-4.5 inches can be obtained. So with that being said, adjust this section of the assembly to the approximate point for the desired drop. Do this to both sides making sure they are evenly lowered. We did this by measuring the overall length of the assembly.

3. Once the installation is completed, you may need to repeat the ride adjusting portion to evenly lower all 4 corners. This also may be necessary if the desired drop is not attained. Remember not to over tighten nuts and bolts when reinstalling. Always have factory torque specs available. AND USE THEM!!!

4. You will notice that the Skunk2 Pro-C’s have an adjuster on the top of the strut assemblies. This is for your damper rate, better known as your ride quality. This will be adjusted after completion of the install. Don’t be afraid to take it for a few test drives. Set it at the desired setting, drive it. If you don’t like it, adjust a click or two at a time. It took me adjusting 2 settings softer to get the desired damping force. You will be surprised, as I was, how much of a difference 1 setting of adjustment will make. Between each adjustment, drive it a little bit, give yourself a chance to see how it rides over some bumps. See if you like it and adjust again if needed.

FRONT:

Removal:

1. Remove the 2 12MM bolts securing the brake line to the strut assembly.

2. Remove the 14MM bolt holding the strut body to the lower fork.

3. Remove the 17MM bolt/nut combo securing the lower strut fork to the lower control arm. Separate the lower fork from the strut body at this time. Just let the fork hang out for a little while, until you complete the re-install of the coilover on this side.

4. Remove the 2 14MM nuts on the strut tower holding the top hat to the body. And, gently remove the stock assembly from the car. Be careful not to get it tangled with the brake line and cause punctures.

Installation:

1. Slide the top hat bolts in the existing holes in the strut tower. While holding in place, finger tighten the 2 14MM nuts to hold it in place temporarily.

2. Slide the lower fork back onto the bottom of the strut assembly. Reinsert and tighten the 14MM nut to hold the fork in place.

3. Slide the 17MM bolt back through the lower fork/control arm and put the 17MM nut back on and tighten.

4. Reinstall the brake line onto the strut body in factory fashion using the existing 12MM bolts.

5. You may now tighten the 2 14MM nuts on the top hats.

6. Once the installation process is completed for both sides, reinstall the wheels and set the front of the car on the ground.

REAR:

Removal:

1. Remove the 2 14MM nuts from the top of the strut. These are located inside the trunk behind the driver and passenger side carpet.

2. With the rear of the car in the air. Remove the inner most control arm bolt (14MM) from the sub frame.

3. Remove the 14mm bolt from the bottom of the strut connecting it to the control arm. Be careful as these bolts have a tendency to break.

4. Let the control arm swing down while holding the strut from falling. The spring/strut combo can now be removed from the car.

Installation:

1. Once the strut is removed from the car you can now install the coil over in its place. Hold it in place by having a friend finger tighten the 2 14MM nuts on the top of the strut inside the trunk.

2. This is where you can swing the control arm up and run your 14MM bolt back through the strut fork and control arm.

3. Align the inner bolt up with the holes in the sub frame. These bolts are pointed for ease of alignment once in the hole. Just use a bit of pressure once in the hole to get it started.

The installation is now complete. Make sure your ride height is adjusted properly and evenly. If not, get the vehicle in the air and readjust. This may take a few times of trial and error, but be patient you will get it. And the end result is great looking and one of the best handling/riding suspension setups we have ever ridden in or drove. Thanks to Skunk2 for such a great product.

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