Step 2: Find a hole in your firewall to run your sensor wires through, if you cant find one suitable use the drill and 1/2″ drill bit to make one and use the supplied grommet.

Step 3: this is optional but we make a hole in our dash so we could run the wires through to keep things clean.

Step 4: We started with the Water Temperature, which requires draining your radiator according to the directions but we figured we would just top it off after installing. You must remove the OEM water temperature on the side of your cylinder head (see your Haynes manual) *this all depends on your application*

Step 5: we then screwed in the Autometer water temp sensor that cam supplied with the gauge and used the supplied lube for an easier install and then we ran the wires through the firewall and plugged the sensor in.

Step 6: before wiring up the power and ground we decided to run all sensor wires since we were doing multiple gauges.

Step 7: we then moved on to the volt gauge and ran the sensor wire to a 12V lead for reading in your fuse box area or similar.

Step 8: Next came the oil pressure gauge, these requires a bit of work. You must drain your oil here.

Step 9:Once the oil is fully drained, we removed the oil filter and right next to it there is a sensor (Depending on application)
That is your OEM oil pressure sending unit. We unbolted this and screwed in the new one from Autometer. We than ran the sensor wire to the oil pressure sending unit screw and attached for a signal.

Step 10: we than moved on to the fuel pressure gauge which is extremely simple. We recommend discharging your fuel pump if you have a kill switch otherwise be extremely careful. Remove the OEM banjo bolt on your fuel filter that runs to your fuel (Application Depending) and replace it with the one from Autometer. Be sure to use the cooper washers to prevent leaks. We then screwed the Fuel Pressure Sensor into the top of the banjo bolt and plugged the sensor clip in.

Step 11: Once we had all the sensor wires ran, we mounted each gauge; the fuel pressure was put on the left side of the gauge bezel to balance things out. Then we ran all our wiring through the hole we made in the dash to keep things clean and reassembled the gauge bezel surround and vents.

Step 12: We then took all the positive wires and ran them together and made one single lead wire out that we ran to a 12v switched source like a radio fuse or similar.

Step 13: we ran all the ground wires together and made a similar one lead out which we ran to a bolt near our shifter for a ground.

Once all the wiring was complete we reassembled the dash panels and etc.

Step 14:Double check all your work, re-fill your radiator and oil and oil filter if you haven’t already.

Step 15: Reattach your battery cables, start the car and look for any mis-readings in gauges, oil leaks, fuel leaks or coolant leaks of any sort , if there is any address them. If not everything should be reading correctly. Clean up your interior if needed to make a cleaner install and take for a ride to watch the gauges read your important engines vitals.

REVIEW: Over all the gauges we have used over the years at the track, on the street where ever. Autometer takes the cake with these new Digital Cobalt gauges, they are accurate, and the new technology makes them very appealing to the eye yet not to bright at night.

Thanks again to Autometer.