Archive for the ‘Tech’ Category

We recently partnered up with LEDGLOW who generously supplied us with an Advanced 3 Million Color USB LED Interior kit. After hooking it up, we were blown away from the color options and features designed into this kit. For those of you interested in purchasing this lighting option, we are here to help walk you through the easy installation which should only require a little more than an hour of your time.  

The first thing is to lay all of the tubes out on the ground and test the kit before installing it. You will need wire cutters, electrical tape, wire connectors and a basic screw driver set for the installation. Due to the fact that every car is different, some other tools may be necessary depending on your vehicle. Please be sure to carefully follow the instructions that were supplied with the kit in order to install everything correctly.

1.      Disconnect your cars electric supply – Disconnect the vehicle’s battery before proceeding to install the kit. This is a very important safety step. Always disconnect the battery through the negative battery cable.

2.      Choose a safe area to mount the tubes – Select an area in your vehicle’s interior that will provide an ideal mounting location. Generally people prefer to install the lights under the dashboard or under the seats to conceal the tubes while still providing the best illumination possible. You will want to install the tubes in an area where they will not be damaged by the seat track, doors or even the passenger’s feet. Keep them in a dry location and away from moving parts such as the pedal assemblies and steering components.  In our vehicle, we installed them in the trunk area under our custom speaker enclosure to give it some illumination during the night.

3.      Mount the tubes – Remove any interior plastic covers in your car that may be in the way. The next step is to install the tubes in a suitable area very carefully using the supplied mounting brackets, screws and zip ties. You may need to drill a few holes for proper bracket locations. Next, cover any of the holes that you may have drilled by inserting a rubber grommet to prevent any damage to the kit’s wires due to any movement that may occur while operating the vehicle.

4.      Connecting to the electrical source – The included control box includes a red and a black wire. The red wire can be connected to the positive side of the battery or to any 12 volt power source in the vehicle. The black wire can be connected to any ground source in the vehicle whether it is a chassis or the engine ground. If you must extend the power and ground wires you would want to use a 16ga wire and ensure that there is a 10 amp fuse within 6 inches of the power source. 

5.      Connecting to a fuse block - If you connect the kit to the fuse block you will want to tie it directly into an available power location.  If one is not available then you can use an “Add a Circuit” to tie it into the fuse box properly. This part is available at any local auto parts store.

6.      Securing the wires – Make sure that once everything is connected and working properly that you secure the wires so that nothing will get caught on them or pull them out, especially while the vehicle is in motion.  You may conceal them behind any plastic trim in the vehicle or the carpet as long as the wires and connections are away from any moving parts, heat or any areas that can potentially get wet.   

That’s it! Now that you have witnessed the awesome lighting power and simple installation that LEDGLOW’s kits provide, get yourself acquainted with the best LED lighting options on the market at www.ledunderbody.com  

Hey guys,

I got another update from C-Tech Performance. As most of you know we have building a all motor b18a1. Basically showing everyone how to build a tuner car motor in a for a street car. Heres the update:

C-Tech Performance did some porting on the intake and exhaust, as expected the intake gained small amounts but the exhaust gained 3% to 4% at low lift and 8% at .400 lift and didn’t go flat above .400 lift as it did in test no. 2.

As you can see in the pictures all they was square the ports just before the radius, the port size they left as is because the gains would be above the cam lift we have and wouldn’t help and the low lift flow would suffer with a bigger port. The next step to get more flow would be bigger valves.

This is how the flow numbers finished on test 3.

Intake

Lift    .100      .150      .200      .250      .300      .350      .400      .450      .500

Flow   76         116      161        192       195       204       214       223       224

Exhaust

Lift    .100      .150      .200      .250      .300      .350      .400      .450      .500

Flow   66         102      140        166       178       185       188       189       190

Intake Stock:

Intake Ported:

Exhaust Stock:

Exhaust Ported:

 

This is how you build a tuner car motor the right way. Street cars take on a different type of build most of the time but we wanted to have the best possible all the way around.

We would like to thank our partners:

SuperTech Performance www.supertechperformance.com
Certified Racinghttp://www.certified-racing.com/
Crower http://www.crower.com//
Gates Racing http://www.gatesracing.com/
Cometic http://www.cometic.com/
Performance Porting http://www.performanceporting.com/
Carquest
C-tech Performance http://www.c-techperformance.com/
Ralco RZ http://www.ralcorz.com/
Aasco Flywheels http://www.aascomotorsports.com/
Exedy Racing USA http://www.exedyusa.com/
Kamikaze http://www.kamikazeperformance.com/
MSD Ignition http://www.msdignition.com/
Thermo Tec http://www.thermotec.com/
Raxles Inc. http://www.raxles.com/

If you missed the beginning of this story Project B18A1 Part 1

http://www.hidxenonheadlights.com/ sent us a set of 6000K HID lights to install on our project “Remember The Fallen” 1992 Acura Integra and we wanted to show everyone how we went about installing.

We followed the following diagrams for the install and recommend everyone else should also:

First things first we are no professionals when it came to this install, this was our first time with this style kit so we made do with it and made our adjustments as you will see in the photos. All install processes will differ depending on vehicle. We had to remove our intake in order to mount one of our ballasts first off. Our job was quite easy since we had a wire tuck completed and we plan to hide everything once our new motor installed.

As you can see from the next photo we installed our ballast under where our intake filter would sit, we were sure to take a piece of sandpaper to bare the metal underneath for an optimal ground.

http://www.hidxenonheadlights.com/ packages the bulbs very securely to prevent any damage during shipping as you can see:

They make the kit quite the plug-n-play unit; the bulbs simply replace your OEM bulbs with a twist of the locking ring and a turn of the bulb. As you can see below:

On the passenger side we also had to mount the relay box which is suppose to use a double sided 3M tape which wouldn’t stick for us , the box needs to have a mounting tape with a self taping screw or a mounting bracket. Since it didn’t we make our own as you see?

As you can see once the intake was re-installed (please don’t mind the wiring mess) everything seemed to work great other than the bracket problem and was straight forward.

Hey guys,

I got another update from C-Tech Performance. As most of you know we have building a all motor b18a1. Basically showing everyone how to build a tuner car motor in a for a street car. Heres the update:

For your imformation / Exh. Seat pitted, left exh. Seat ground,
Head resurface 1&2. Head resurface will be included to show
difference between warp and twist. This head is twisted.

Lets start with flow bench 2, the head gets clamped to base with a tube
to match bore diameter, this imitates valve shrouding and the angle of the
air going in and out of valves. The dail indicator shows valve lift, the
clay around Int. port smooths the sharp edge of the port.

Next is Int. seat 45, Int. seat 45 & 60, Int. angles 15,45,60. This
just shows the 3 angles that smooth the transition of the air going in and
out of the head. I put black marker on last one then ground the 15 & 60
angles to better show the 45. The valves also get multi angles, the Int.
valves are already cut with a 30 backcut, but the exh. was not cut. Grinding
backcut and backcut angle show Exh. valve being ground on a 37.5 angle for
this application. You might have to zoom in to see the angle better.
Exh valve 2 seat marking shows marking where valve face and seat meet,
this mark should show all the way around valve face.

This tells you that the valve is seated and where the seat hits, the closer
to the edge the better the flow but you give up some life on the valve grind
when you run on the edge.

Checking stem height and grinding stem tip 2 is the last procedure
before assembly, The stem height is distance from spring seat to valve tip.
If the tip is to high the valve will push the follower up past the lash
adjuster range and if to short you wont have enough adjuster to take up
lash. The tip height also effects valvetrain geometry but I’ll get into that
later.

Flow numbers are as follows

Intake Exhast
Lift: 100 150 200 250 300 350 400 450 500 100 150
200 250 300 350 400 450 500
CFM@ 28in 69 105 147 166 180 194 207 218 224 62 111
127 151 164 173 175 176 178
1 angle
CFM@ 28in 76 116 159 187 194 203 213 221 225 67 99
135 161 171 176 176 176 176
3 angle

We will post numbers and pictures after revised porting and
pictures of spring set-up and valvetrain geometry.

Backcut angle
Checking stem height 2
Exh seat pitted
Exh valve 2 seat marking
Left exh. seat ground
Flow bench 2
Grinding stem tip 2
grinding backcut
Head resurface 1
head resurface 2
Int seat 45 ground
Intake Angles 15, 45, 60
Intake seat 45 & 60

This is how you build a tuner car motor the right way. Street cars take on a different type of build most of the time but we wanted to have the best possible all the way around.

Partners Include:
SuperTech Performance www.supertechperformance.com
Certified Racinghttp://www.certified-racing.com/
Crower http://www.crower.com//
Gates Racing http://www.gatesracing.com/
Cometic http://www.cometic.com/
Performance Porting http://www.performanceporting.com/
Carquest
C-tech Performance http://www.c-techperformance.com/
Ralco RZ http://www.ralcorz.com/
Aasco Flywheels http://www.aascomotorsports.com/
Exedy Racing USA http://www.exedyusa.com/
Kamikaze http://www.kamikazeperformance.com/
MSD Ignition http://www.msdignition.com/
Thermo Tec http://www.thermotec.com/
Raxles Inc. http://www.raxles.com/

If you missed the beginning of this story Project B18A1 Part 1

I got some more images and a update from C-Tech Performance and thought I would let you all know that the block now has been started with assembly of the pistons, rods, crank and etc.







The block will consist of:

Mahle 10.5 Pistons, rings, & pins
Bored over .25 MM
BILLET CROWERODS ACURA INTEGRA 1.8
Moroso Oil Pan thanks to www.certifiedracing.com
ACL Race main, rod and thrust bearings thanks to www.aclrace.com.au
Cometic Full Gasket kit C4388 & Head gasket C4238-030
ARP rod bolts thanks to www.certifiedracing.com
Fresh Hone
Block Completely hand cleaned and partially polished
Ralco RZ Single Belt Conversion Crank Pulley (Alternator only)
Aasco Lightweight Flywheel (8lb)
Exedy Stage 2 Clutch & Pressure Plate
Raxles Custom All Motor/Autocross SCCA Axles
Full 2.25 Stainless steel exhaust
Vibrant Performance Muffler
LSD YS1 JDM XSi Trans
Fidanza Short Throw
& More

If you missed the begining this build Project B18A1 Stealth Part 1

Update:

The motor block is finally on the stand and we are starting assembly this week. It looks like the shop we are working with finally got some free time to get to our build up. Here are a few pictures. Remember to keep your eyes glued here for continuing coverage:

We’d like to thank the following partners on the build:

Partners Include:

Certified Racing
Crower Cams
Gates Racing
Cometic Gasket
Performance Porting
Carquest

C-tech Performance
Ralco RZ
Aasco Flywheels
Exedy USA
Kamikaze Performance

MSD Ignition
Thermo Tec
Raxles Inc

C-Tech Performance managed to squeek out some time this week and do some machine work on
our engine.The block has been bored, honed, washed and ready for assembly.We hope to get in on an engine stand next week, as soon as one is availablecand start the assembly process late in the week if all works to plan.

Heres some photos for your viewing pleasure! Stay Tuned!

IF you missed part one of this series Project B18A1 Part 1

Otherwise you can continue on to Project B18A1 Part 3

Hey guys,

I know its been a while since I wrote anything but I have been slammed with getting our integra ready for shows with its custom paint theme (Will release more soon). We have been working with a ton of companies which I will list below along side of C-Tech Performance in Wyoming,MI www.c-techperformance.com on getting our motor for our Integra fully built and assembled. They are starting by balancing the whole rotating assembly and then boring the block .25 MM over.

The build plan goes as follows:
The Head:

Will have a stage 3 head job (thanks to www.performanceporting.com, these guys have the best prices and do grade A work!)

(Fully cleaned, gasket match ported intake, gasket match ported exhaust/polished, polished combustion chambers, gasket surfaces cleaned, Super tech valves, springs, retainers & valve seals thanks to www.supertechperformance.com, valve clearances checked, head milled .030, 3 angle valve job, Crower Stage 2 403 camshafts, Crower polished camgears thanks to www.crower.com, ARP Head & Main studs, Gates Racing timing and supertine belt thanks to www.gatesracing.com, Kamikaze Black 4-1 Header thanks to Kamikaze Performance.MSD Extreme Distributor Cap 82922,Rotor 8092,
Wire Set Extreme 8.5MM 35329,Thermotec Cool-Air Tube Heat Shield ,Cool-It Plug Wire Sleeves Red 4 Pack,Generation II Copper Header Wrap 1′x50′, & Starter Heat Shield, Golden Eagle Fuel Rail (Blue)

Parts we already have to transfer to the head:

K&N Short Ram
Skunk2 Pro Series Intake Manifold
RC Injectors

The Block:
Mahle 10.5 Pistons, rings, & pins
Bored over .25 MM
BILLET CROWERODS ACURA INTEGRA 1.8
Moroso Oil Pan thanks to www.certifiedracing.com
ACL Race main, rod and thrust bearings thanks to www.aclrace.com.au
Cometic Full Gasket kit C4388 & Head gasket C4238-030
ARP rod bolts thanks to www.certifiedracing.com
Fresh Hone
Block Completely hand cleaned and partially polished
Ralco RZ Single Belt Conversion Crank Pulley (Alternator only)
Aasco Lightweight Flywheel (8lb)
Exedy Stage 2 Clutch & Pressure Plate
Raxles Custom All Motor/Autocross SCCA Axles

Parts we have to transfer to block:
Full 2.25 Stainless steel exhaust
Vibrant Performance Muffler
LSD YS1 JDM XSi Trans
Fidanza Short Throw
& More

Partners Include:
SuperTech Performance www.supertechperformance.com
Certified Racinghttp://www.certified-racing.com/
Crower http://www.crower.com//
Gates Racing http://www.gatesracing.com/
Cometic http://www.cometic.com/
Performance Porting http://www.performanceporting.com/
Carquest
C-tech Performance http://www.c-techperformance.com/
Ralco RZ http://www.ralcorz.com/
Aasco Flywheels http://www.aascomotorsports.com/
Exedy Racing USA http://www.exedyusa.com/
Kamikaze http://www.kamikazeperformance.com/
MSD Ignition http://www.msdignition.com/
Thermo Tec http://www.thermotec.com/
Raxles Inc. http://www.raxles.com/

Stay tuned as we update on the process of the build!

You can continue to Project B18A1 Part 2